aboutpalm 
Posts: 20
Location: USA
Rank: Novice
View Profile
 |
| 12/28/2006 10:39 AM |
 Alert
|
Hi,
I need to sew some small lettering on towels. I tried the soluble topping and its ok until it is washed, then the lettering just disappears.
Sewing around 3/4 inch high in plain block.
any tips??????
Frank. |
|
Frank |
|
|
planet_embroidery
Posts: 37
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Rank: Novice
View Profile
|
| 12/29/2006 1:52 PM |
Alert
|
More pull comp than you would normally (edge run margin)....
More underlay than you would normally (Double zig-zag + Edge run)
Tie off between letters (if there is spacing..I.E> not script).... Towels are about rough a terrain as it gets.....
The double zig-zag should ensure that the pile is well and truely held down and even after washing.... this should keep most of the pile at bay.
Especially if you have a fairly heavy coverage with this ...I.E it is almost like going over it twice ETC.......
As for the letters disapearing there is not alot you can (should) do about surounding pile.......
The important thing is that the pile does not grow through your letters....that is all anyone could expect... and the above measures should (along with your solvy....) do the best possible job....
|
|
David Hewitt (Digitizer/Director)
Planet Embroidery (Australia)
web: http://www.planetembroidery.com.au/
email:digitizing@planetembroidery.com.au |
|
|
aboutpalm
Posts: 20
Location: USA
Rank: Novice
View Profile
|
| 01/06/2007 12:29 PM |
Alert
|
Thanks. They looked OK. I used double zig zag but they still pucker after they are washed. I can never stop that ripple pucker effect you get after you wash them. Could it be my density? Maybe I have too many top stitches. What spacing do you use?
Frank. |
|
Frank |
|
|
Brenden
Posts: 113
Location: Sydney, Australia
Rank: Regular
View Profile
|
| 01/06/2007 3:11 PM |
Alert
|
Hi all,
In this site under Training > How To Articles is some information digitizing for towels (plus lots of others!)
Enjoy!
Brenden |
|
Regards,
Brenden
Wilcom LIVE ONLINE EVENT
http://www.wilcomdiscovery.com |
|
|
basabi
Posts: 127
Location: Tornesch near Hamburg, Northern Germany
Rank: Regular
View Profile
|
| 01/06/2007 10:54 PM |
Alert
|
I have good experience on terry cloth when doing lettering also smaller than 3/4 inch when using a less - yes less - stitch density on top, something between 120 - 110 % depending on the surface, but I engage zigzag underlay at around 1 mm density first and then edge run at 0.2 or higher margin depending on the font. I try to find a font together with my customer (in other words, I advise my customer) which does not have extreme slim columns and wide columns like Old English in case the letterng is small.
As for the letters disapearing there is not alot you can (should) do about surounding pile.......
David, here I disagree exspecially I disagree to the (shoul). A grid of running stitches beneath the lettering in exactly the fabric's color and just a mm or so wider than the imagined outline of the whole lettering object makes the lettering, also when it is smaller than 3/4 inch, not sinking into the pile and IMHO it looks definitely good.
Barbara |
|
Barbara |
|
|
aboutpalm
Posts: 20
Location: USA
Rank: Novice
View Profile
|
| 01/07/2007 2:17 AM |
Alert
|
Hi Barbara,
Posted By basabi on 01/06/2007 10:54 PM
A grid of running stitches beneath the lettering in exactly the fabric's color and just a mm or so wider than the imagined outline of the whole lettering object makes the lettering, also when it is smaller than 3/4 inch, not sinking into the pile and IMHO it looks definitely good.
Barbara
What a great idea! I will sure try that. I assume it will flatten it down and stop that ripple effect I check.
Thanks so much for everyones advice! This place is great! |
|
Frank |
|
|
stichz
Posts: 2
Location:
Rank: Newbie
View Profile
|
| 01/07/2007 3:24 PM |
Alert
|
| Using Wilcom software on towelling, I've had great luck with small letters using an underlay thread color that exactly matches the terry. A tatami spacing of 4.0 - length 4.0 with a matching underlay of the same. Do not us the default offset fraction of .25, use the partition line sequence of 00004444 and angle of 45.0. Create a block of thread no wider or taller than the line of copy and you will have a light no-show underlay of thread to matt the terry loops and keep them in place after washing. I like to use a zigzag or double zigzag on the lettering underlay with a 110 or 120 density on the top which varies with the color contrast and size of letters. Jan |
|
|
|
|
aboutpalm
Posts: 20
Location: USA
Rank: Novice
View Profile
|
| 01/08/2007 12:57 AM |
Alert
|
| great tips from all! thank you! |
|
Frank |
|
|
Jean
Posts: 2
Location:
Rank: Newbie
View Profile
|
| 01/11/2007 9:38 AM |
Alert
|
The puckering effect of the Embroidery on towels after washing is probably due to the shinkage of the fabric. Most towelling products are woven from Cotton which has a normal shinkage of between 5 and 10 pecent. If the towelling is loosely woven the shinkage is normally in the higher range.
Jean |
|
|
|
|
Embroidery-Hub
Posts: 18
Location:
Rank: Novice
View Profile
|
| 02/02/2007 6:58 AM |
Alert
|
Lots of good tips, and here are a few more.
(a) Here's a Cheat: Invest in a large pack of Ultra-Fine Sharpies in as many colors as you can find. (or whatever brand of permanent markers you have). Very slightly pull up on any toweling thread peeking out... carefully use a marker in the same color as the top thread to color the toweling thread. Don't get too close to the lettering -- the towel thread will absorb the marker color down to the stitching -- and it's a very light touch with the marker. Trim the toweling thread as close to lettering as possible.... carefully nudge the remains back under in between the top threads with closed embroidery scissors.
(b) So, hopefully, you won't have to do (a):
I've had good results with a "Single or Double Tatami Underlay" in the same color as the top thread --- Using the heaviest TearAway backing you have that will tear away cleanly (it will wash out eventually). A heavy towel needs double tatami, thinner toweling can be single tatami. Usually default settings work fine for me.
Topping can be laid down on a slightly moistened surface -- around the perimeter of the design area. Or directly on a moistened design area, but let it dry before sewing. I prefer the perimeter method.
Increase the "Satin Column Width" as much as you can without distorting the readability of the lettering.
Use .17 for the "Pull Compensation" setting.
Turn off "Fractional Spacing" or keep it no to more than .110
I use stitch spacing for the top thread of approximately .35, stitching "Center Out."
As for tie-offs: may not be needed if the lettering is set to "closest join" and not spaced too far apart ... the connecting threads usually get buried in the pile. You can use the "Markers" as in (a) above in the same color as the towel to color the threads that don't want to play hide-n-seek. |
|
|
|
|